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Prevent your YAESU rotor G-1000DXC /G-2800DXC from becoming an aquarium.

 


I made some holes in the bottom to let rainwater out  that can intrude trough the bearing gaps.

  My G1000DXC  bearing pointer suddenly started to move uncontroled and then stopped. moving was no more possible.

I could move it by  using an external  DC 12-20V  the needle was struck.

Before there where issues It could not turn i high speed  first in one direction then in both.

So when I took the mast down last time I saw water pouring out of the bearing gap.

A lot of water . I found the internal potentiometer defect, the plus lit was complete corroded and loose.

The potentiometer 500 Ohm  has  5.6VDC voltage over it all the time the rotor is in standby.

 So electrolyse will start if moisture is present.


Before try opening the rotor turn the rotor in its middle position  opposide the end stop. there is a mark on the top boddy that marks the end stop position. 

This way the movable endstop lever is always in correct position

The potentiomer has an end stud 270 dgs   it measures 27mm x 14mm main boddy  then 20m for it shaft and bearing tube plus fixing nut.   shaft measures 5.8mm here not 6.3!

It is fitted in a plastic frame together with 2 gearwheels that reduce the movement from 450 to 270 I guess. The plastic frame with 2 screws makes it easy to replace the potmeter.

An smal ( metric 1.5mm inbus key is fixing the  axis  5.8 mm !  a common 6.3mm axis whil not fit! Opening the Rotor without dropping the balls  (49) is possible.

I place the rotor in a cardboard top (of a known beer mark) to prevent loozing balls and parts.

You should wear protective clothes there is black grease everywhere  ... except  in the top bearing... 

Place the roto upside down remove the 4 screws , bring topring down slow try to keep all 49 balls in it.

Press both boddies together!  and take out of the bearing ring  that is down .

Place thering with its balls away in anothe cardbord top or any container to rest.

Pess both boddies together and turn it upside again.

Then top part can be lifted off leaving the bottom part with all 49 balls in it place is away next to the ring with the other balls

The grease can be sticky to the balls you might need to pick of all ball hanging on the top.

then the inside  clockwork can bee seen, for me it was a shock to see  the wet parts and the broken corroded wire  brown wire left   in the middle red and   right 2 wires black + orange

It was possible to resolder this wire again and then it was working smooth ! a mirracle since I do not know how long water has been inside , I did nod see water comming out  before when I did tilt the mast down.

I tested the rotor with its controbox using an improviced connection 3 wires for the potmeter
 
and 2 wires for the DC motor    10V slow 22V fast  reversable 

I noticed when testing wit an 5k potmeter that the pointer did not move anymore but the Az Voltage at the external mini DIN stayed at normal value  0-4.5V about ( the manual say 2-4.5 but it is 0-4.5V)

The circuit to drive the scale pointer is separatly  working from the external remote Vaz !

It moving the scale pointer needs more current... why so complicated there must be a reason?

Also the manual say: mni DIN pin 8 is not used but there is a 5V from a resistor divider at pin 6  I have modified this to 10V to supply my ESP remote rotor control

When using remote the speed is determined  voltage 0-5 V at DIN 3  I used a fixed 3.3V

Then if testing is succesful and the rotor moves about 450 degrees   here  north as end poit

North  CCW minus abt 30dgs  180  checked  halfway  and over west to north  and 30 dgs overlapp

Then i tuned it back to halfway soouth 180dgs ( in my location North is stop)  

Then turn the rotor place it carefull on the botom part . the end stud in the top part must be uposite of the movable lever so that it wil  not block in my south direction   for end in south  west or east it is different of course.

then holding both parts together place it back in the ring check  that all balls are in place I counted 49 balls 50ball do not fit a small gap is left

I found it easier to set the rotor in halfway position before taking it apart , this way the movable lever must stay at the oposite side there is a mark at the top part indicating where the endstop is located

I have made pictures allong the process but since Picasa is no longer available the pictures are hidden

somewhere jus taking space on the drive crazy "improvements"



 

Comments

PE4BAS, Bas said…
Moi Jaap, uitgebreide beschrijving. Die foto's kan je publiceren door ze op google photos te zetten. Dan kan je ze rechtstreeks in het blog zetten. Picasa is al een hele poos geleden weg. Ik heb destijds mijn Kenpro KR600 rotor 2x gereviseerd en ook met nieuwe potmeter uitgevoerd. Weet niet hoe oud die rotor is, kreeg hem bij mijn versatower. Versatower is al wel 50 jaar oud. Dus de rotor ??? 73, Bas

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